Last week some sewing friends and I were part of a fashion show at UQSM sponsored by Cotton + Steel. We each picked some fabric from the new Cotton + Steel Amalfi line and made some handmade clothing. It was so fun to see everyone’s unique taste and style shine through.
I often preach about sewing solid items to make your wardrobe go farther. I took this into account when I was planning this outfit. I could’ve made solid pants and a floral top, but I have plenty of print tops. If I would’ve made one more printed top it would’ve been hard to coordinate with anything in my wardrobe.
I knew that I needed a solid top the most so I started by planning that first. Then I decided to make something really fun and made some floral woven joggers with a fun hem and details.
Tierras Woven Joggers
I chose the Tierras Woven Joggers sewing pattern* because I had seen good reviews, and I wanted to start with a pattern for woven fabric instead of altering a pattern made for knit fabric. I have altered the Hudson pants pattern in the past, but I wanted a slightly different shape for these floral pants.
I know that I love the woven jogger shape because I have made so many, and it’s often my first choice when I pull something from my closet. It’s a shape that I’m really drawn to.
To make these pants special I decided to add flat piping to the pockets, side seams, and hem. I omitted the elastic casing at the hem and added a curved hem with a facing. It really makes the piping shine and the hem detail pop. Use these tips for sewing curves.
I made a size 4 and didn’t add any length. I ended up shortening the pants by 2.5 inches. I also removed some width from the center back and some width from the legs. I wanted a slightly more fitted pair of pants than the pattern. I’m very happy with the fit.
I decided to keep the back of the pants really simple and not add any back pockets. I didn’t want to detract from the piping and curved hem.
cotton + Steel Rayon Fabric
I used the Lively Floral Mint from the new Amalfi fabric line*. I love the floral style, and those colors matched my wardrobe colors the best. I have used Cotton + Steel rayon in the past, and I really like how it’s thicker and easier to work with than other rayons I’ve used. It’s a really dreamy fabric to work with.
I took the fabric to my stash to see what woven cotton matched the best. I had a large gingham and a small pink print that matched well, but I ultimately decided on the small pink print. I liked how the larger floral contrasted with the tiny pink print. I also think that together they look really tropical.
I decided to use the Willamette Shirt sewing pattern* because I wanted something with a collar, but I wouldn’t have time to do the Cheyenne Tunic sewing pattern*. I also needed a solid shirt with some structure for other outfits in my summer wardrobe.
I made a size small, I think, I traced it off last summer and can’t remember exactly what size I traced. I almost always make a size small in Hey June patterns though. I added 1 inch at the waist and dropped the side curve 1 inch. I made no other pattern alterations except taking the sides in slightly after seeing how much body the Cotton + Steel lawn had.
I wanted the Willamette to look like a button up shirt, so I added some tiny buttons to the front placket. These were in my grandmother’s stash when she passed away, and it’s really fun to use them on something that will get a lot of wear. They are only 1/4″ wide; they are so tiny!
Cotton + Steel Lawn Fabric
Since I needed a solid color that would coordinate with the floral print, I chose some cotton lawn* for the top. The floral was a lighter color overall so I went with a darker lawn and chose the Indigo color. It’s a great match with my pants, and it’ll go well with my printed summer bottoms.
I’ve never worked with Cotton + Steel lawn before and didn’t know how it would be before ordering it. Once I was part way through sewing the Willamette and I tried it on, I realized it had a lot of body. The lawn was too stiff for a boxy top, and it didn’t drape like other lawn fabrics I’ve sewing with.
I ended up taking in the side seams an extra 5/8 inch to make it a little more fitted. I’m happy with the fit now, and I think it works well with the fabric.